March 22, 2026

Fall Winter 2026: The Maison’s Metamorphosis

Once again, like a monastic ritual, devotees of CHANEL entered the grand temple of the Grand Palais. Upon entering, we were greeted by a striking set: colorful cranes rose between the seating, as if prepared for a ceremony. The iridescent floor hinted that that night we would witness something vibrant, new, almost magical. I wondered: why the cranes as part of the set design? Sometimes, the answers are simpler than they seem. The essence was clear: CHANEL is under construction. Its pillars and foundations remain solid, supporting a maison in transformation—a metamorphosis evident since Matthieu Blazy’s first collection, with packed stores and viral accessories on TikTok.

Blazy has achieved what many creative directors dream of: balancing the pendulum of time. Past, present, and future intertwine to create a magical metamorphosis. The maison’s DNA remains, yet transforms; the future arrives without fear, while the creative axis stays in orbit, allowing this great fashion planet to keep spinning.

The collection draws inspiration from Gabrielle Chanel’s words:

“Fashion is both caterpillar and butterfly. Be a caterpillar by day and a butterfly by night. There is nothing more comfortable than a caterpillar and nothing more made for love than a butterfly. We need dresses that crawl and dresses that fly. The butterfly doesn’t go to the market, and the caterpillar doesn’t go to the ball.”

And from Blazy’s vision:

Chanel is a paradox. Chanel is function, Chanel is fiction. Chanel is sensible, Chanel is seductive. Chanel is day, Chanel is night. It represents the freedom to choose between the caterpillar and the butterfly whenever you want. I wish to create a canvas for women to be unapologetically who they are and who they want to be.”

The collection moves through time, layering silhouettes: light layers, relaxed cuts, from the 1920s to the 1960s, and returning to the 1920s, where we find ourselves today. The Chanel suit, as the central archetype, is boldly reimagined: ribbed knits, classic tweeds, fabrics woven with artificial fibres, lurex and silicone, natural gauze, 1920s-style silk jerseys interwoven with tweed, and new techniques in embroidered and knit suits that demonstrate exceptional lightness and mobility.

For the evening, the metamorphosis becomes tangible: the “papillon de nuit” emerges, with stylized, flowing, iridescent, cascading coats and dresses. Striking colors, innovative textures, and bold combinations create a sensory experience that blurs the line between club and runway, while “Just Dance” plays as the models become nocturnal butterflies.

By day, the collection softens: modern cuts, sophisticated textures, and elegant clothing maintain comfort and functionality, reflecting Gabrielle Chanel’s essence—practical yet transformative.

The dialogue between real and artificial is realized in the accessories: enamel and resin jewelry saturated with color, artificially dyed mother-of-pearl pieces, pastel second-skin boots, and a range of bags from practical to playful. From the iconic beige suede flap bag with its “divan matelassé” inspired by Gabrielle Chanel’s apartment couch, to the kinetic-lock bag and the extravagant pomegranate minaudière with iridescent enamel, each piece is a coveted object and an invitation to explore the maison’s future.

This collection not only celebrates transformation and freedom of expression but also sets the standard for upcoming trends. Which accessory will become the next object of desire? At CHANEL, metamorphosis never stops.

author SEBASTIAN MAGUNACELAYA
images COURTESY OF THE BRAND